Thursday, November 26, 2015

Three years later...

This article originally appeared in the Irish Times on 25th November 2015.

My days were once consumed with emails, appointments, spreadsheets and procedures. My wardrobe was a formation of pressed suits in dark shades blending into one another, with perfectly matching heels below them in their boxes. Obsessed with having flawless and manicured nails, I’d repaint them when I detected the slightest chip. On my sparse work desk all items were neatly arranged, flanked by an orderly stack of reference books. I clutched my Blackberry in my right hand as I marched from desk to car, unable to be separated from it for even the shortest of time, a safety blanket between me and my work.
Looking up from my spattered Birkenstocks (what is that on them I wonder), I eye up another delivery landing into the kitchen and wonder where we’re going to find space. Already every inch of the stainless steel benches are cluttered with boxes, chopping boards, plastic containers, and now this wobbling tower of fruit crates. It’s hot in the kitchen and I’m frantically trying to remember where I stashed our fans. A distant memory of an air-conditioned office flashes into my head, I push it away. Time to unpack the delivery and get back to work.
This transition from corporate world to kitchens started three years ago. I’d always been somewhat obsessed with food. In my former life as a HR manager in Dublin I’d bake at home, always making too much, bringing the leftovers into work the next day. I fed my colleagues breakfast with scones and biscuits; a white and dark chocolate cheesecake laced with Kahlua was a particular favourite.
Having always been more academic than practical, I went straight into college after secondary school, studying psychology then a Master’s in business, before starting work in a large retail pharmacy group.
I genuinely loved my old job, and as I climbed up the ladder I hid the thought of doing something else. My mum of course knew better (don’t they always), and would often say that I hadn’t found what I should be doing. Dismissing this I would focus on the next big project in work.
But when my father survived a critical illness, my life was turned inside out and I began to question everything I had built for myself. Around this time I started a blog, where I began to pour out my fixation with cooking. I’d stay up late at night writing it and at weekends I’d wake up early and spend two days in a cooking and baking frenzy. This continued for a number of months and eventually the opportunity to move to London came about a month before I turned 30.
For a while, I maintained the illusion that I would continue to work in HR when I moved abroad. It seemed easiest to answer questions with this rather than admitting I was finally going to try and follow my dream to become a chef and writer.
It was then that I realised how much you can let your work define you. When I first moved to London I didn’t work for a number of months, having saved in my old job. I had become so used to saying, “I’m Laoise, I’m a HR manager”, that when meeting new people and having to introduce and talk about myself I felt I had little to say. But moving to London rather than starting over again in Dublin made it less complicated to “re-invent” myself. In London I was anonymous, but I quickly found there were connections to be made here too.
As is often the case with the Irish abroad, I’ve ended up working for an Irish person. Robin Gill set up The Dairy restaurant in Clapham in 2013, and it has since won many awards, including the Good Food Guide’s Chef of the Year award for Robin himself. Last year he opened another restaurant The Manor, closely followed by his farm shop, The Delicatessen early this year and his fourth site Paradise Garage a few months ago. With his teams, he has created beautiful restaurants which make their own bread, butter, and charcuterie like pork and fennel salumi, guanciale, goose ham and lardo. At The Dairy we even have a rooftop garden complete with beehives, looked after by Dean Parker, head chef at The Manor.
Having an Irish connection in London has certainly helped me and I’ve been overwhelmed by how supportive the industry is here. Once you show a willingness to learn opportunities open up to you, and I’ve met a number of Irish people who echo the same sentiment.
I went to cookery school and completed a professional diploma, during which I started working in a pub kitchen to gain hands-on experience. Moving from a background of a constrained and always politically correct HR environment to entering a kitchen where anything goes, was refreshing.
Cooking at home back in Ireland, I’d think I was only marvellous having small dinner parties for friends with ooohs and aaahs over my cooking. Sure didn’t I know how to cook already? I hadn’t a clue.
In a professional kitchen you are faced with every task being amplified. You’re not dicing one onion, you’re dicing 20. You’re not making a small bowl of mayonnaise, it’s a vat, and you just know this is the time you split it, over and over again as you stutter “honestly I know how to make mayonnaise”. You’re not peeling one potato, it’s a sackful. You’re not plating up four dishes, it’s hundreds. Now think of doing that over and over again, every lunch and dinner service and doing it consistently to the same standard.
In a domestic kitchen you can easily control the environment, your equipment, your music, no distractions. Now enter the professional kitchen where you may be surrounded by one or more of the following: loud music, deliveries arriving, other chefs working around you all wanting to use the same equipment at the same time, suppliers ringing, front of house staff calling out cheques, crashing trays, dishes, pans, basically loud sounds all the times, your work space being invaded by other chefs, equipment, more deliveries. The list goes on.
You might think that being an organised person is a vital part of being a chef, and yes it is definitely important, but it can also be immensely frustrating, as you’re working in an environment that is often chaotic.
Before I started learning how to cook professionally I imagined I’d glide elegantly around the kitchen in my Birkenstocks, stirring sauces, sipping stocks, adding a pinch of salt, another sprig of thyme, a sprinkle of cracked black pepper. I would be serene, smiling sweetly as I conjured up another batch of pomme purée.
How wrong I was. Here are a few things that have stood out during my very brief experience of professional kitchens so far.
Blue paper: You will develop an unhealthy obsession with blue paper. It has so many uses. A new roll seems such an abundant thing. But where does all the blue paper go? It’s an unanswered mystery.
Rage issues: An uncontrollable rage fills you if someone uses a chopping board without blue paper underneath to secure it. Or worse still they’re using blue paper but it’s not damp. An Incredible Hulk type rage consumes you when you don’t have a spoon when you need one, or can’t find a spatula.
Backs: You’ll shout “backs” more times in a day than is humanly possible. “Backs! Backs Baaaaaaaacks!” Soon you’ll begin to chant it like a little refrain in your head. When you leave the kitchen you may bark this out at strangers who spend more than five seconds moving out of your way.
Your nemeses: cling film and tin foil: These everyday food coverings may seem useful at first, but they are in fact evil beings which will conspire to become stuck to everything. You will spend more time than you really should cursing them. But when you manage to unravel them you will feel victorious (enjoy it, it’s a temporary feeling).
Respect for spoons: Before working in kitchens, I wouldn’t have given the humble spoon a second thought. Now it is a prized gemstone. Find yours. Keep them. Never let them go. Ever. Ever. They are magical objects that disappear only to reappear at the end of service.
Kleptomaniac tendencies: On the bus home you’ll wonder what that is digging into your back pocket. Three tasting spoons. Two dough scrapers. Plus some blue paper.
On the long days: When you’re aching where you never thought possible and you’ve entered a whole new level of tiredness, you’ll wonder why the hell you ever left your office job for this crazy world.
On the best days: And then someone gives you a one-word compliment on a dish. It is the best feeling. You’ll wonder why the hell you didn’t leave your office job sooner. That’s why you go home, sleep for four hours and get up and do it all over again.
I long stopped caring about my nails, and laugh at the old me that endlessly repainted them and actually cared the day she first had to cut them to cook. My wardrobe now has a new work uniform: mismatched jeans, a row of white t-shirts on a spectrum of white to grey or cream following many cycles in the washing machine. The heels are long gone, replaced by an extensive sock collection, perhaps a tiny nod to my old life.
Laoise Casey is a chef at The Dairy and The Delicatessen in Clapham, London and also writes regular columns for the London Evening Standard and Independent about one of her favourite subjects, lunch. Laoise first wrote for Generation Emigration in 2013 about leaving Ireland to cook up a new life in London. She blogs at and tweets at @cuisine_genie.

Thursday, November 05, 2015

Pack it up

The vac pack is a vital piece of restaurant equipment. Removing the air from a bagged food/liquid and sealing it allows you to preserve it for a lot longer. You can also use it to infuse food with flavours by compressing. Imagine vac packing diced apple with apple juice, infusing carrots with a pickle liquor. When ours breaks down in the kitchen you realise just how reliant you are on it. 

You also realise just how reliant you are on it when something goes wrong. Like when you forget to set the timer to stop at 10 seconds and let it run up to 50. Now this might be OK if you were vac packing some innocuous liquid like, perhaps, water. However, when it's bone marrow butter it can be rather upsetting. Upsetting like making you want to stab yourself in the eye upsetting. You watch as the butter explodes in the machine and jab at the stop button which for some reason won't obey you and for the-love-of-god-why-won't-it-stop. You glance frantically around you, exhaling with relief as you see there's no one around to witness this supreme display of idiocy. Then you spot the KP who helps you clean up the disaster and promises not to tell anyone.

(And then you write a blog post about it)

Image source

Friday, October 23, 2015

Le Shoe Parfait

Alas, not an ode to the perfect shoe.

There is a highly useful piece of kitchen equipment called a Vitamix Vita-Prep - a blender. Relatively fool-proof to use. You'd imagine. 

So. About that.

While it may seem like a fairly straightforward step in the process of using a blender always ensure you put the lid on. Tight.

Otherwise there will be an episode. A combination of partially blended chicken livers, foie gras, emulsified butter and eggs all over your shoes. Your apron. Your hair. Your face. And the ceiling. As you watch the livers slide off your shoes onto the tiles you start to feel a little like this:

Image source Wikipedia

You brush the congealed butter off your face and flashback to this time last year when you were sitting at your desk with your manicured hands in your business suit typing away on your emails delighted with yourself. 

Time to go home and cry into your calloused hands.

You won’t forget to tighten it next time, will you? 

Thought not. 

Thursday, October 15, 2015

Broad Bean Gate

Before I started learning how to cook professionally I imagined I'd glide elegantly around the kitchen in my Birkenstocks, stirring sauces, sipping stocks, adding a pinch of salt, another sprig of thyme. A sprinkle of cracked black pepper. A serene presence. Smiling sweetly as I conjured up another batch of pomme purée with the sleight of a hand. 

Within a few weeks-days-hours I had turned into a stark raving lunatic. 

What follows is a series of incidents where any resemblance to real persons, living or dead is purely coincidental. 

Like this one time. With the broad beans. 


stage is where you basically work for free in a restaurant kitchen to gain experience. 

During a stage your main aim is to stay out of the way, be helpful and not cause any hassle to the kitchen. Note: not to cause any hassle to the other chefs is really your main aim. 

If they ask you to cook  a load of broad beans and peas you should probably have the foresight not to throw them all in the same pan and cook them together.

Had you not had the foresight to do this you will now spend the next 58 minutes separating them. Feeling like the world’s biggest plonker as the rest of the chefs look on grinning. You probably won’t be coming back there again. 

Image source Wikipedia
The broad bean, not to be confused with the pea

Wednesday, October 14, 2015

Oh hello again...

So for the last year and a half I sort of disappeared from Cuisine Genie.

Time passed and glancing guiltily at old posts I figured it would be silly to start writing on here again. This blog seemed more associated with my old life (as a HR Manager, as I was when I first started it) and sure wasn't I too busy now learning how to cook and writing my fancy newspaper column?

Oooo  yeah. Remember Mr. Moustache's lunch box? Well turns out other people like them too. And I've somehow ended up with a column all about the humble lunch box for the London Evening Standard. Except this is now about lunch boxes inspired by my favourite London restaurants and their signature dishes. And now you can read all about turning restaurant dishes into simple lunch boxes. If that kind of thing floats your boat you can read about it here. And if it doesn't well that's ok, I get that some people don't swoon about lunch boxes. 

So there I was writing about lunch boxes. Trying to cook. Living the dream in the big city, well chuffed that for the moment at least I won't have to hang my head in shame and skulk back to the corporate world.  But still my little blog lies neglected, slowly gathering dust in cyber space. Each week my mum would ring and demand to know when my next update would be. 'But I'm really busy with work and y'know writing about the lunch boxes and y'know I just don't have time...'. And I'd roll over, turn on Netflix and figure I'd start writing again on it some day.

Then just this evening I figured I'd do it. (I'd watched the last episode of Narcos). I started this blog before the crazy journey from HR to kitchens began and now that I'm a little way into it well it might just be the right time to keep going. 

Perhaps now is a good time to share with you all the mistakes, disasters and general catastrophes that feature in learning how to cook professionally. So g'wan, pull up a chair, pour a cup of tea and read about what happens when I stopped talking about it and just did it. (except I actually kept talking and sometimes I can't stop and that probably gets really annoying, but you know what I mean it's good to talk isn't it?).

Tuesday, April 08, 2014

Fun things about being a Chef

Step inside the magical world of kitchens...

The Glamour

Blue paper
You will develop an unhealthy obsession with blue paper. So many uses. A new roll of it seems such an abundant thing. 

But soon the never ending kitchen mystery rears its head - 'where-the-$*&%-does-all-the-blue-paper-go?' And when you see that dispenser is empty a little part of you cries inside. 

(Source eBay)

More about blue paper
An uncontrollable rage fills you if someone uses a chopping board without blue paper underneath to secure it.  Or worse still they're using blue paper but it's not damp. Oh the humanity. If this happens at home, be careful, your loved ones may not appreciate this side of you. Like an Incredible Hulk type rage that consumes you until finally, finally, the board is safe again. And breathe.

Backs backs backs backs backs
You'll shout 'backs' more times in a day than is humanly possible. 'Backs! Backs Baaaaaaaacks!'. Soon you'll begin to chant it like a little refrain in your head. Chant with me now: 'backs backs backs'. When you leave the kitchen you may bark this out at strangers who spend more than five seconds moving out of your way. 

On the outside world
Ah the outside world. It seems like such a funny place when you leave the kitchen after a sixteen hour shift. A strange place where everyone and everything is in s-l-o-w-m-o-t-i-o-n. You, on the other hand, are rushing around on speed cycle shouting out BACKS at everyone in your way and wondering how on earth it takes people so long to make decisions. Like in a shop queue. 

Meet your nemeses - cling film and tin foil
At first glance these everyday objects are useful. They are in fact evil beings which will conspire against you at every opportunity becoming stuck and you will spend more time than you really should cursing them. But when you manage to unravel them you will feel victorious. (Enjoy it, this is a temporary feeling). 

Spoons (respectful silence)
Before working in kitchens the humble spoon may have seemed insignificant. Now it is a rare gemstone. Find yours. Keep them. Never let them go. Ever. I mean ever. Ever. Is that clear? They are magical objects that disappear only to reappear at the end of service. Also a really good pair of kitchen scissors will make you happier than you ever thought possible. Once you can find it again.

Arriving home with strange objects
On the bus home you'll wonder what that is digging into your back pocket. Ah, those three tasting spoons. And two dough scrapers. Plus some blue paper (that solves the mystery). 

On the long days
When you're aching where you never thought possible and you've entered a whole new level of tiredness you'll wonder why the hell you ever left your office job for this crazy world.

On the best days
And then your Head Chef gives you a one word compliment on a dish. It is the best feeling. You'll wonder why the hell you didn't leave your office job sooner for this crazy world. That's why you go home, sleep for three hours and get up and do it all over again. 

Tuesday, October 22, 2013

Behind the scenes at Dip & Flip

Whatever the question, the answer is always dip. Always.

My life can now be divided into BG and AG - Before Gravy and After Gravy. I'd never really thought that much about gravy until the last few weeks. Have you? Do you lie awake at night pondering how to create the perfect combination of meatiness, juice and flavour? Do drops of the brown stuff dance in front of your eyes while crammed onto the Tube like a sardine in a gravy boat? Ah. Just me then. 

So let's go back to the start: Before Gravy. The story begins with a new London restaurant, Dip & Flip. We'll break it down - pay attention now. The dipping - that's the gravy part - dipping burgers, roast beef and lamb. The flipping, well that's the burgers. 

Dip & Flip opened in Battersea Rise last month and my job was to set up and manage the kitchen. Having met with the business partners and owner Tim Lees I jumped into the stock pot head first. Nathan Richardson, Sous-Chef at The Ship, had designed the recipes and all I had to do was set up the kitchen processes and design. Yes, I wasn't quite sure what I was letting myself in for either.

So 'burgers' I hear you mutter..hardly original now are they? Ah, this dear reader is a burger so good that if you had to abandon all other burgers and spend your life with just one, this is the burger for you. A burger that is proud of its messiness. A burger that is not afraid to stand up and have a pickle lovingly placed on it. A burger that wants to, nay, yearns to be dipped in sweet gravy. A 6oz patty cooked on a chrome plated griddle that creates a crust and adds flavour. Topped with cabbage slaw and pickles. Dripping with secret cheese sauce. All wrapped up in a shiny brioche bun. How about adding roast beef dipped in gravy?

Oh. Yes. We. Did.

Dip & Flip burger with roast beef dipped in...gravy

A few days before the restaurant opened we had a soft opening for friends. An hour into service I was close to screaming and running out the door gravy ladle in-hand. It was one of those moments when you start to think what-the-hell-am-I-doing-here-why-amn't-I-back-in-my-nice-safe-HR-job-and-why-did-I-want-to-be-a-chef-anyway. In moments like that the only thing that keeps you from running away is pride. That and not wanting to roam the streets of South London in chef's whites and clogs. 

After many sleepless nights we set up the kitchen processes, organised the sections and the following week were open for business. Along with the other amazing chefs everything was put in place. Looking back now it seems a blur of gravy...Tube...burgers...gravy...Tube...gravy...

It isn't rocket science. This is fast-casual food. But it is food that will temporarily transport you to a happier place, all with gravy.

Let me tell you that gravy is a labour of love. We start with making stock from beef bones, which takes 2 days of tender loving care. This beautiful stock is the basis for the gravy, which at last count is being consumed at approximately 30 litres a day. 

Now I could talk and talk all day about making stock, gravy and about that burger. But what it comes down to for a new opening is does the customer like it? That's all that matters. 

Yes, they do. Check out the Dip & Flip Twitter for some of the feedback. There's also been some really positive reviews from ThrillistBurger Affair and Burger Anarchy. The Evening Standard featured it in the top restaurants for man eaters last week. Lady eaters, don't worry, I've showed a few of those burgers who's the boss and so should you. Rumour has it that even John Torode of MasterChef was spotted dipping and flipping at the weekend. 

I can't wait to see how Dip & Flip grows. If you haven't been, for the love of gravy, please do.
Dip & Flip
87 Battersea Rise, London SW11 1HW
Open 7 days a week 
Nearest station Clapham Junction